Tibet - the final days

With field work all done, we had a couple of days left for touring around. The plan was to drive from Linzhi to Lhasa (the centre of everything for Tibetans). Of course this meant an eight hour drive up hill to about 4000 m above sea level.

The landscape along the way was drier and drier as we got closer. and the ride was so bouncy I don't believe I actually touched my seat.

Finally we got to Lhasa. The Potala Palace is hard to miss, towering above the city. We toured inside, but were not allowed to take pictures. The residence of the Dalai Lama. It must really suck for him not to be able to live there. The place is pure gold inside, with many chapels, halls, schools for religious training, with tombs for all the previous Dalai Lamas, Buddhas everywhere.

Early in the morning, a few pilgrims found outside.

By mid morning, thousands of Tibetans circling the palace, as they do 2 times a day, every day.

A view of Lhasa from the top of Potala Palace

On Potala Palace, The highest toilet in the world?

Next, a visit to Johkang Temple. Tibetans make the pilgrimage to this temple at least once in their lifetime, by walking (or prostrating up and down along the way) from wherever they live. The trip can take anywhere from 1-5 years, depending on what province in China they live in. Many don't make it. We had to be very careful driving to Lhasa in the dark.

Once they do make it, they then need to prostrate up and down 180 000 times (not kidding. They count using beads).

Again, only pictures from outside. Once inside, no cameras.

The courtyard with a few Lamas

Young Lamas debating philosphy

Old town Lhasa near the temple

Endless shops

Careful where you walk.

Getting ready to drink Yak Butter Tea. I even took an extra sip, just to be sure. Not my cup of tea.

The tsampa wasn't bad (a mix of highland barley and yak milk)

On the last day, we decided to drive drive another 5 hours north of Lhasa to visit Nam Tso, a giant saltwater lake that sits at 5000 m above sea level. The further away from Lhasa, the more obvious it was that Tibetans are nomadic in nature.

The Lake.

Field work in Tibet

Following a tour of the farmlands, and a couple of seminars in Beijing, I was off to the airport headed for Tibet. There is no direct flight to Linzhi, Tibet where we were to do some field work. Thus we had to connect through Chengdu (the capital of Szechuan province).

Spent one night in Chengdu. How could I have never heard of this city? I feel so ignorant. It is a very modern city of 10 million people. Reminds me of Manhattan. The local food is highly spicy (Szechuan cuisine), the best of all food I had in China. This is also the place to visit if you're interested in the Giant Panda, as they live in a few mountain ranges nearby.

The next morning flew to Linzhi, Tibet. This is the lowest elevation in Tibet - 3000 m above sea level. It's highly recommended to spend a day or so here before heading to higher elevations. Yes, breathing was a challenge. Always short of breath, heart beating fast and headaches.

Tibet University in Linzhi, where we spent an afternoon planning our field sampling strategy.

The goal was to collect soil and plant samples along this elevation gradient. The different zones are clear in this picture. Bottom (mixed deciduous forest), above that (conifer forest), above that (shrub highland), above that (meadow highland), above that (no sampling-exteme environment).

Our field vehicles. Sampling starts from the top (at 5000 m above sea level). Very difficult to work, as oxygen is much lower. Walking and moving very slow. I only lasted half an hour before collapsing in the van for a nap. And even though we were so high, the Hymalayan peaks in the distance were a reminder that we weren't really all that high after all. That's Namjagbarwa Peak in the distance (at about 8000 m above sea level, not that much below Everest which was nearby. On the other side of those mountains - India.

Tibetan prayer flags everywhere we drove.

A friend while we sampled.

Lunch. Yak soup.

China - first few days

I just back from a two week trip to China. Both Facebook and Blogger are banned over there, so I could not post anything. I'll add a few posts over the next few days.

After 1 day in Beijing, I spent the next couple of days in Quzhou (4-hour drive to the south) situated in the North China Plains, to check out some research plots and also some extension work with local farmers (mainly winter wheat).

One of many experimental field sites. This area is flat!

My hosts from The China Agricultural University

The mayor of Quzhou, who gave me some of his prized green tea.

A brief talk to the local farmers

The audience...it felt intimidating.....

A visit to a local farmer's land. Intercropping winter wheat with watermelon. Never heard of that before.

Bonnie

Introducing Bonnie, my new Triumph Bonneville.

Not ready yet to ride her on the Bonneville saltflats, but maybe in a few years.

Happy 4